Travelling Starfish

Today I woke up and thought…why not mix business with pleasure?

One of my soon-to-be (cross fingers) customers wanted to meet me in town today close to an area of the city I’ve never actually discovered yet.

This meeting actually jogged some memories from my trip to Israel in 2007.  Here we go down memory land…

Artistic photography

…When I was leaving Israel in ’07, I took a  cab to the airport from my hotel which was near the beach (of course!).  This taxi driver asked me how my trip went, if I’ll come back to Israel, etc – the typical taxi driver talk.  I remember that he asked me if I had visited some set of towers that had some really nice shops.  I told him that the only shopping experience I had was either in Shuk Carmel or at the Dizengoff Center – another shopping mall that is in the dead center of the city.

When I told this taxi driver that I didn’t go to these towers, he was surprised.  He kept saying, “you must, you must, they are amazing!”.  I told him that the next time I was in town I would definitely make a visit.

Since arriving here in November, I still haven’t made my way over there.  If I’m honest, shopping malls aren’t such a draw for me.  I think growing up in Toronto, where there are shopping malls every few kilometers made me lose interest.

Today though my client wants to meet around there so I figured there isn’t any better time than the present than to check these towers out.

Architecture around Azrieli

The Azrieli Towers are a set of skyscrapers (or towers…funny enough) that were opened in 1999.  At the base is the infamous shopping mall, housing brands like H&M (a new addition), Israel’s own Castro and other faves like Nike and Levi’s.  This center is the biggest one of its kind in Israel and attracts approx 40,000 shoppers every day from around the globe! That is actually impressive.

It is actually cool walking around and looking at all the shops.  One of the Israeli stores I like is Castro.  They offer both mens and womens fashions – there prices aren’t at Primark level but they are still reasonable considering the quality.  I know that I shouldn’t but I walk in there and try a few things on.  Guess what?  I come out with a new dress – why not?  I’m worth it!   I also grab my favorite Israeli cappuccino from Aroma and grab a sit to observe a bit.  I notice that it is a typical mall but one with a bit of an edge – modern which makes me like it more than usual.

More impressive is the outside – the architecture is something I’m really attracted to.  There are 3 buildings all in different shapes – as you can see the round one is the tallest.  This is an office building.  The triangle building (the one I haven’t photographed) is where the mall is and houses more offices.  The square tower, which was opened in 2007, is an office and a hotel (Crowne Plaza).  This is all pretty posh indeed.

The towers

After doing a bit of research, I also find out that there was a bit of drama with the building of the towers.  The center was originally designed by an Israeli-American architect (Eli Attia) but he fell out with the developer (David Azrieli) so Mr. Azrieli passed the completion to a Tel Aviv firm.  You would never know there were any issues though – the buildings are beautifully designed.

Over the years, more ways to drive tourism have been implemented including an observatory deck on the 49th floor of the round building.  Possibly another visit another time!

As much as I dislike shopping malls, I’m actually going to recommend this one to those visiting Tel Aviv.  Not only are there a lot of nice shops to browse, there is a good atmosphere inside with a number of nice cafes and restaurants.  More importantly, the architecture in itself is worth a visit.  I love contemporary architecture and this is one that stands out – especially from what I’ve seen so far in Tel Aviv.

OK, I’m off to my meeting – dress and cappucino in hand.  Everything a girl could ever ask for…

Until next time,

Enjoy! x

So far today, I’ve experienced the lovely atmosphere in Neve Tzedek and now I’m headed back down the boardwalk to one of my favourite areas of Tel Aviv – the Port.

To get there, I need to walk north past many of the beaches I mentioned last week - Gordon, Frishman and Hilton.  Since it’s a Friday and non-work day there is so much going on.  It’s a really exciting environment to feel apart of.

There are loads of people playing volleyball and matkot (paddle tennis) – it even looks like there is a tournament of some sorts going on.

The liveliest area, in my opinion, is the bit of beach in front of the Carlton hotel.  This is where all the sports activities are going on and there are also some bars and cafes set up for those that just want to chill.

I spot a bar called the “Durex Bar” – that’s quite an intriguing one for a number of reasons (lol) but I think it’s not a bar that is always there.  Today is a special “Durex” day I guess.

I go past Gordon swimming pool which is quite nice and modern – originally a pool dated back to the 1950s.  I’m not a big fan of all the saltiness of the sea so a swimming pool is always a great alternative plus you get the sea view right there!

After I hit Hilton Beach, I pass Nordau Beach.  Nordau is the beach I mentioned last week that has separate bathing areas for men & women as it is tailored for religious jews.  I read the signage and see that they actually have different beach days for men and women.  Friday is a “male” day so there are loads of religious men walking in and out.  I know I shouldn’t but I peak my head in and it is true – all the men are doing all the normal beach things (playing volleyball, going in the sea, etc) minus the women.  I’m sure some men out there would actually think that this removed the most interesting part of being at the beach but I’ll stop there before I get myself in trouble.  There is a huge wall that’s been put up to keep any eyes out.  It is a very interesting concept indeed and a definite reminder of being in Israel.

The final beach I pass before I get to my destination is Metzitzim Beach.  This beach is quite small and is apparently where a lot of people hang out.  If I’m honest, I’m not exactly sure why, as its a bit quiet and not the nicest that Tel Aviv has to offer.  I assume that it has a lot to do with the proximity to the place I’m headed to – The Port!!!

Tel Aviv Port

I arrive to my destination (it’s taken me about an hour and 15 minutes) and it looks just like it did the last time I was here in 2007.

The first couple of times I was at the port was for a bridal shower for my good friend at Max Brenner (a chocolate restaurant – I’m not kidding!) and then another time with distant relatives for a meal.  I didn’t really know much about it other than it was nice and apparently a new area to head to.

So as I did with Neve Tzedek, I did a bit of research on the Port.

The port of Tel Aviv was created into a flourishing area around 2005 offering new restaurants that are opening all the time, a multitude of events, beautiful views and shops too!!

Cafe culture at TLV Port

The port offers activities throughout the entire day, from cafes (like Israeli standards like Cafe Cafe and Aroma) to get that morning pick-me-up, to outdoor markets and shops to keep you occupied and fantastic restaurants and clubs to keep you entertained well into the wee hours of the morning.

There is an antique fair every Saturday (yes – Saturday!) between 10am and 8pm. There are also jazz concerts and musical events throughout the year.  As I’m writing this, I’m actually thinking of going back tomorrow (Saturday) as it may be a nice way to spend an afternoon…hmmm.

So what did I get up to?

I started out by taking in the view – it is absolutely breathtaking.  The only one I can compare it to is the one I had in the Maldives while stay in a water villa (that was amazing by the way!).  The way the decking has been setup actually makes you feel like you are hovering over the sea (which you kind of are!).  Having a meal here would be absolutely magical – definitely adding that to my list of things to do!

TLV Port & the med

By this time, I actually fancy a drink.  I am a lover of wine but since I’ve been in Israel, I’ve hardly touched the stuff.  Typically I find the local wines not so great (hopefully my views will change once I visit the wine regions here) and a bit pricy – compared to the UK where it is dirt cheap to drink!

Today though I think a glass of vino is in order.  I park myself at the Speedo bar – yes it is a bar owned by the makers of the swimsuits!  The main draw for me is not the image of men wearing tight bottoms but are the lounge-like chairs and the view of the sea.

My seat at the Speedo Bar

I order my typical  Sauvignon Blanc and just chill – loving it!  Days like this are what life is all about.  All I need now is a handsome guy to have a toast with – another time!

It’s getting a bit late and I have a long walk back so before I get too relaxed and nod off or too drunk that I  fall over on my way home, I decide to pay the bill and go.

The port (for some reason) will always have a special place in my heart as it’s a great place to spend time morning, noon & night.

The new work week is drawing nearer so I must go to enjoy every moment of the weekend before it ends.

I’m taking a break mid-week to see a little place most of you have heard of called The Dead Sea so this week should prove to be interesting too!

Until then, Miriam x

After a long – and I mean long – morning, I’ve decided to continue the theme of late and treat myself.

Two places have been on my agenda since I got to Tel Aviv but they keep falling off the radar due to other things coming up or work commitments.

These places of the city are Neve Tzedek (where I’ve never gone before) and heading out to Tel Aviv port on foot.

All in all, its a fairly decent trek.  I searched on Google Maps and it stated that it was about a 7km walk one way from my place to the port – Neve Tzedek is just a  bit out of the way but not a remarkable distance.  So it will be just over 14 km return today!  Great exercise but better get my walking shoes on before I head out the door.

First stop…Neve Tzedek -

Neve Tzedek is literally around the corner from me and much closer than a lot of other places I venture to on a weekly basis.  Its just a bit out of my way so today is the day for me to be a bit different and give it a visit.

As this is me, I end up leaving late and my 12 pm departure turns into a 145pm one.  After I finish all my work (see how committed I am?) and get ready, I’m on my way.  I think my first port of call is going to be finding a bite to eat as I’m starving.

I find this restaurant on the main street in Neve Tzedek, Rehov Shalom Shabazi, called Suzannah.  It seems to havea good vibe, lots of people and the food looks (and smells) good.  I think we’ve found a winner!

Suzannah restaurant - Neve Tzedek

On my lunch menu today is sweet potato and chicken meatballs with bread (of course) and a cappucino!  I know it’s all a bit random but it makes me happy so all is good.

As I sit and wait for the meal, I take a look around at the lifestyle in Neve Tzedek.  I did some research yesterday on it and found out some really interesting things.

Neve Tzedek was the first Jewish neighbourhood, established in 1887 (22 years before the city of Tel Aviv was founded), to be built outside the walls of the ancient port of Jaffa (where I’m staying now). For years, the neighbourhood prospered as Tel Aviv, the first modern Hebrew city, grew up around it. Apparently, there were years of neglect but you wouldn’t know that by looking at it today.  Since I’ve been here I’ve only heard good things.  It is considered very fashionable and I’ve heard is expensive.

From what I can see from the patio I’m on, there are loads of colourful, low buildings all on narrow streets.  There seems to be many pedestrianized areas too – which I’m a huge fan of.  Can’t wait to walk around later! I’ve also heard that there are lots of artists and writers living here and that it has a funky feel to it.  I love finding these little towns close to big cities as I’m more into the small and unique places VS the large and chaotic (personal preference).

My arch nemesis - Israeli bread (too good!)

So, finally my food arrives – as I think that I’m going to pass out.  The bread looks sooo good.  They give me a whole loaf and I’m telling myself that I will eat a max of 1/2 of it and either save the rest for another time or leave it.  The issue is the bread in Israel is SO good.  It is one of my weakness foods (fresh hot bread along with fresh pastries and choc chip cookies are all the enemy). I’ve strategically placed it far away as to try and deter devouring the loaf – as you can see from the photo.

My meatballs arrive but they don’t look like meatballs – to me they look like mini-cakes or latkes (pancakes).  Hmmm…note to self: meatballs are not the same in Israeli restaurants.  It still looks delicious so I dig in.  Plus my cappuccino just tops off the experience.  Yumm!

My chicken "meatballs" - still yummy!

The atmosphere is enjoyable as there is a lot to keep me entertained.  Music in the background, families celebrating, cute dogs.  I finish my meal with a smile on my face, pay the bill and I’m off to explore more of Neve Tzedek.

And yes, I only ate less than 1/2 the loaf!

I pass by a ton of small shops who are either selling unique clothes or home goods.  I also pass a lot of frozen yogurt (fro yo) shops and bakeries.  Again, I stay away.  There are also some mini galleries with paintings and sculptures.  I walk into a couple of them but realize that I really need a bit more time before I commit to a day of eyeing up art.  I love it so much that I know that I’ll never make it anywhere else today.

I suddenly stumble upon this really lovely square where there is a museum of some sort but also a theatre.  I go into the theatre – which I never knew existed – and see that there are a number of shows running now and in the coming months.  This is the Suzanne Dellal Centre for Dance and Theatre.  There will be a show with dancers from Madrid in July – I may go as I love watching dance.

Gorgeous square - Neve Tzedek

As I stroll along, I realize how crazy it is that this cute community is smack dab in the middle of a crazy bustling city like Tel Aviv.  I love it as its such a pretty place and so close to where I am.  I’m kind of upset that its taken me so long to find this gem as now that I’m walking away back towards the front, I can’t wait to go back to experience more.

I like that Neve Tzedek has a bit of history too and it feels like there is something more there than just a manufactured little neighbourhood.  It feels like it has roots – which I like and embrace.

I’ve left Neve Tzedek and am now facing the med, on the boardwalk and headed to my next destination on Miriam’s Friday adventure…Tel Aviv Port!

Stay tuned for Part 2!!

I haven’t been to a flea market in many years.  From memory, I believe the last one I visited was with some friends on a visit back to Canada a few years ago.

Like the name suggests, a flea market sells a collection of items for bargain basement prices – the size of a “flea”.

Just around the corner (literally) from where I’m staying in Jaffa is one of the biggest demonstrations of a flea market that I’ve ever seen.  To me, it is more like an extremely large garage (or in the UK, car boot) sale.  There are stands everywhere selling everything you can imagine.  It can all be summed up in one word – randomness.

Approaching Jaffa flea market...

Today I took a bit of a break from my busy work schedule to grab a coffee nearby the market and see if I could find any hidden treasures.

The walk from my flat to the market is literally 5 minutes.  Before hitting the mayhem, I decide to stroll through a small residential area that leads into some nice cafes and bars.  It is really lovely and quiet – far from what I am about to experience as soon as I head into the busy and bustling market full of vendors.

After I pass the houses (which are worth quite a pretty penny I’m sure) I see a few pretty posh looking bars and cafes.  I am told that there is a really good atmosphere in these bars but they are a bit pricey – I will have to save this experience for a special occasion of some sort.

I then start to see shops appearing that have a number of “collectables” of random things – books, artifacts, DVDs, etc.  Ah, yes, I am approaching my destination.

Jaffa Flea Market

There is a large square in front of me with people and “stuff” everywhere.  I’ve walked through here on the weekend and this square is typically empty, excluding a small bar/cafe that has some live music on a Sat afternoon.  This coming weekend I actually plan on visiting the live music to take some culture in – Yaffo style .

Today, though, is a far cry from the relaxed atmosphere I’ve seen on Saturday.  To put it bluntly – it’s a mess (balagan in Hebrew) of people, things and noise.  As I said in my last post, I love the market atmosphere.  This market is a bit of a shock to the system but I’m up for it.  I wander around and see if I can find anything I like.

Most of the items, from what I make out, are about 5 shekels (under US$1.50) per piece.  Not a bad deal if I can find something that I like.  Over the years, and with my many travels, I’ve learned (the hard way) that accumulating “stuff” isn’t always the best idea.  Saying that, though, I love a good bargain.

Fancy a drink?

I’m told that you can get the best buys at this market early on a Sunday morning.  Since its the start of the work week, I guess the vendors have gotten a bunch of new inventory (or possibly other peoples garbage) over the weekend.  It is also said that if you are the first customer on the first day of the week, the seller hopes a quick sale will bring him luck throughout the week.

Since its Tuesday I may be out of luck in finding what I want and getting a bargain (but how can you really negotiate on 5 shekels??).

If I’m honest, there is a lot of junk – as is typically normal with these types of sales.  However there appears to be some treasures.  There are a lot of copper items, some interesting jewelry as well as some really unique Judaica items that I could always get for myself or as a unique souvenier. Today, I’m not really interested in any of these items, though, so I decide to give it a pass and continue to have a giggle on some of the items on display.

Some of my faves -

• Old used telephones from times of yesteryore
• Slippers in the shape of one of the seven drawfs
• A zebra that is two times the size of me
• Mini bottles of booze – if this environment is too much to handle

Trade in your mobile for these beauties!

The best part of this place is that it is fun.  You can wander around, take in the buzzing atmosphere, haggle to get some bargains if you want and grab a cup of coffee all at the same.  Sounds lik

Gotta love the slippers!

e a cheap day out to me.

I plan to go back again this weekend as well as on Sunday to see if the old myth of getting the best deals/items is true.

If you don’t live right next door or are visiting the area, it’s really easy to get here.  Just take Bus 10 or 8 from Tel Aviv Center and get off when you see the clock tower.  There are signs to direct you to the flea market.  For more information on the Jaffa Flea Market, click here.  Enjoy, Miriam 

I know I’ve said before that I’m not overly touristy, but this is where I make an exception.

On most of my visits to Israel, I’ve always taken time out to visit the markets in the cities.  There are “shuks” (markets in Hebrew) just in about every town or city in Israel, but I still think Tel Aviv’s Carmel Market is the most dynamic.

Carmel Market

It has everything in one area – your standard fruits and veggie stands, clothes, toys, flowers, fish and even toys for the kids.  Don’t expect top quality but I actually have found some good bargains with a decent level of quality here.  For instance I bought some sheets for my new digs a few weeks ago and they are actually some of the best quality sheets I’ve ever bought – and cost me under $20 for a double set with pillowcases.  You can’t beat that!

Yesterday I decided to cut my work day a bit short and head into the markets to check out what was going on.  First things first, Friday is a day off here in Israel so the market was packed.  For those that like peace and quiet on the weekend, this is not the place to go.  For those who want some culture and an exhilirating vibe, I can’t think of a better place to be.

I enter the market and there are people everywhere and all the vendors are yelling this, that and the other.  For those who haven’t been to a market in the Middle East or somewhere similar, it is such an exciting experience.  There is just so much going on and so much energy in the crowds it really makes you feel like you are somewhere different than – say – the suburbia I grew up in.

First port of call – spices.  I have grown to love a few spices that I’ve never really found anywhere else.  The guy selling them at the market can give you advice on what to use them with and will even let you try them out.  My favourite by far is Zaatar.  Essentially it is just a blend of herbs, sesame seeds and salt but it is so tasty.  It works well on homemade pita chips – which is a favourite (and healthy) snack of mine.

Artists Market

After I get some spiciness, I browse the other booths for veggies and fruits – I plan on picking up a few on my way back (so I don’t have to carry them all while I walk around).  I’m also on the look out for a gift that is a bit different and I’ve come to the right place on the right day of the week.

Every Tuesday and Friday, the market hosts an artists market, called Nachalat Binyamin.  It is located at the Yemenite Quarter on a pedestrianized walkway which is one street parallel to the actual Carmel Market.  Local artists setup stands with their homemade goodies – including jewellery, pottery and various other designs.  Over the years I’ve found that it has become a bit too aimed at tourists but if you take a good look you can find something that is unique.  It all depends on your tastes really.

I’m not a big fan of pottery but love glass and there are a lot of glass blowers designing items right on the spot which is good fun to watch.

Israeli Capp...delicious!

In addition to all of the artists and general mayhem of the market, there is such a good atmosphere on a Friday.  There’s live music, buskers and just a genuinely positive vibe all around.  I decide to grab a cup of coffee outside and just relax to take it all in.  I think back to my first time at the market, which I think was about 11 years ago (crazy!), and realize how different that experience was for me then vs. how it is now.  It is funny how things change – your environment as well as yourself.

After my lovely cappuccino (proof is in the picture – yummy!) I keep trawling through the artist designs.  I don’t find anything for my friend but actually find something for me – of course!  It is actually a starfish made by a local designer.  I get talking to her and mention my blog and she thinks that she has landed a sale for sure.  When I find out the price I walk away as its a bit too pricey for my budget.  Now that I’m back home I’m a bit tempted to go back and get it – I’ll keep you posted.

I head back to the Carmel Market and pick up my fruits and veggies.  To give you an idea of how cheap things are here – I budgeted that I would only spend 100 shekels (that’s about US$25) the whole day.  During the course of my time at the market I got a cappuccino (which was the luxury of the expenditure), a massive container of cherry tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, apples, a big chunk of dutch Edam cheese (yum!), 2 types of spices and some chocolate (my treat) – plus I had 20 shekels to spare. There are a lot of other things I didn’t buy just because I had to carry them – but they were dead cheap as well.

Sweets

The moral of the story is – it is the cheapest place to buy anything in Tel Aviv – at least that’s what I think.

As I head home, I reflect on my day.  Good times all around.  What I love the most about markets is that you not only get some really good bargains but you also have a great experience at the same time.

For those headed to Tel Aviv, make sure to include Shuk Carmel and Nachalat Binyamin on your itinerary – it will be an experience you will never forget!