All my bags are packed and I’m off on a desert adventure!!
I grabbed the midday Egged bus from Tel Aviv and I’m heading down to Kibbutz Ketura for the night before I head over to the Jordanian border.
My trip down south is the same as I’ve done before. Four hours later, I arrive at the kibbutz and am greeted by my ex-volunteer coordinator. She’s given me my own room and I decide to drop my stuff off and go for dinner. One of my favourite things to do on the kibbutz is go for a walk in the evening. The stars are so clear and it is one of the most peaceful places I’ve ever been.
After my late night walk and a good nights sleep, my alarm clock goes off at 6am and it’s all systems go.
I grab the kibbutz bus (a local bus that stops at all the kibbutzim in the area and stops in Eilat) and decided to see if the driver could drop me a bit closer to the Jordanian border. See, I was told that most people take the bus into Eilat but the border is a lot further north of the actual city. A typical taxi ride from Eilat to the border is about 30 shekels (under US$10). It never hurts to ask if the driver can drop me closer. This time, I ask and I get! The driver drops me a 5 minute walk to the border.
Border crossing to Jordan
I get to the border and I’ve been told to watch out for tour groups – as suspected there are tour groups aplenty. I strategically try to get ahead of them.
First step, clearing the Israeli side. The first step in the Israeli process is to pay a departure fee of 94 shekels (about US$25) – a bit steep but what am I going to do, argue? The next thing is to change my money to Jordanian Dinar. The exchange rate is nearly on par with the Pound. I honestly can’t believe it!
To change my shekels to Dinar I exchange about 500 shekels and only get 88 dinars. I soon learn that this isn’t going to get me far. After the currency exchange, I head over to passport control to exit Israel.
Next step – I head to the Jordanian side of the border. This side is fairly straightforward – you simply go to the border to obtain a free visa (it is free when you go through this particular border and for most passports). They ask me a few questions about my intentions and duration of stay. After that, off I go!
One item to note for those who are travelling to other Middle Eastern countries. Some countries like the UAE, Saudi Arabia, Syria and Lebannon will not allow individuals with an Israeli stamp in their passport into the country. Israel does not limit entry after visits to these countries. So, if you are planning to visit Israel either visit the other Middle Eastern countries first or make sure to ask Israeli immigration not to stamp your actual passport. They will issue you a visa stamp on a separate piece of paper so you won’t have difficulties entering any other country.
I walk through the Jordanian border and look out for a taxi to take me into the centre of Aqaba so I can catch another taxi to Petra. I estimate the whole journey (from the border to Aqaba and back & the round trip from Aqaba to Petra) should cost me about 80 dinars. For any other costs, like entry into Petra, I’ll just put it on my card (or so I think!).
As I approach the car park, I’m inundated with taxi drivers wanting to take me on my journey. They say that they will quote me for hire of a driver for a day – so the driver will stay with me from morning until I come back to the border. Wow – I feel special – my very own driver! I ask how much and they quote me 200 dinars. I laugh as this is completely outrageous considering my research. They then go down to 90 dinars (over 50% off in the first minute!). I tell them all I have is 80 dinars and that I would be willing to pay 70 total. To my shock, they agree! I guess it pays to go in the off season.
Passing through Wadi Rum
I meet my driver Mohamed and we are on our way. We head out of Aqaba and the early start starts hitting me. As we wander through the Jordanian mountains and all the natural untouched beauty I can feel myself falling asleep. My driver catches on and asks if I want to stop for a coffee. I couldn’t think of anything better!
We stop on the side of the road at a small cafe and have a traditional Arabic coffee (somewhat like Turkish coffee). This coffee is strong but sweet – and tastes a lot like cinnamon. I am not a fan of turkish coffee but this is really tasty and just what the doctor ordered.
Petra is about 2 hours from Aqaba and along the way there are a lot of points where you can stop, shop and take in the beautiful views. Also, one of the special sites in Jordan is en route too – Wadi Rum. Wadi Rum is a valley cut into the sandstone and granite rock. It is home to many Bedouins and there are villages here, there and everywhere. Many tourists go to spend a night in the Bedouin tents before or after their time at Petra. You can sleep under the stars and take in the untouched beauty of Jordan. Another trip I think!
The camel didn't like me & I didn't like the camel:)
There are also a host of animals along the way – from goats, donkeys and (of course) camels. My driver Mohamed is adamant about getting a photo of me with a camel. I’m not convinced…I’m not afraid of them but I can’t imagine they enjoy taking snapshots with tourists. I guess camels are the celebrities of the Middle East – and I guess my driver and I are the paparazzi!
As we get closer to Petra, I can see the crowds getting larger and the area is more developed – hotels surround us. My driver asks me if I have dinars on me for the entry fee. I ask him “how much is the entry fee?” and he says “60 dinars”. I actually think there is a language barrier as I can’t imagine that paying 60 quid for entrance into a facility is possible…well, I’m wrong. To make things more complicated, they don’t take card – so it’s off to the ATM I go!
The one thing I will say that is unfortunate in Jordan is that some things aren’t that cheap…most are, but somethings are definitely not. Hopefully it will be worth it…I have a feeling it will be.
As my driver continues to talk to me about Jordan, the traditions here and tries to teach me how to count to 10 in Arabic, I suddenly look up and see it – I’ve arrived.
Petra here I come – woo hoo!!
Stay tuned for Part 2 coming up next!
