Cast your minds back a couple of weeks. I ventured out to see the sites in Haifa and unfortunately was disappointed! On a way too hot day where I actually wasn’t feeling too well, I ended up going to Haifa and came up empty handed.
Well, I’m back with a vengeance and have decided to give it a go again to see the infamous Baha’i Gardens. My journey started out a bit better – temperatures have cooled slightly and I’m not coughing constantly. I made an earlier start (and one that wasn’t on a Sunday) so the train was fairly quiet. I also did a bit more planning this time. I went onto the Baha’i website and wrote down directions to get to the bus once I arrived in Haifa – I learned my lesson last time not to rely on anyone for directions.
An hour on the train and I was there – flashbacks to my adventure there a few weeks ago haunted me slightly but I didn’t let that phase me. I pushed forward.
German Colony
Like I said, this time I did my research. The map looked simple – to grab bus #23 which headed up to the lookout point – I just had to turn right and then left at the first roundabout. Five minutes later, I turned to the left and couldn’t believe my eyes – the “gardens” were staring me in the eye. I couldn’t believe it!
Rewind 3 weeks ago and I wonder how people were so confused on where I was asking to go? The blank stares now confuse me! This wasn’t a small park, it was the city’s focal point! As I reflected and waited for the bus, I realized that I was actually in the German Colony area of the city – old looking buildings all converted into cafes – very Israeli.
I grabbed the bus and made my way up the hill (well, mountain). When I arrived, I was 30 minutes early for the English free tour. There was a Hebrew tour starting right away so I thought I’d join that – I figured I could always follow along and if I wanted to just go off on my own I could – that’s allowed I’m sure (keep reading…)!
The Baha'i Gardens in all its glory
We got led into a small area while the tour guide told us some of the rules. I figured with all the tours I’ve been on through the years I knew what he was mentioning – drink lots of water, keep close, etc etc. We went to the first area and to be honest I got bored already. Check out the video to see what I mean – the gist of what the guide is saying is about how there are gardens here and in Acre and a bit about the history of the Baha’i. Since I was a bit bored, I started walking ahead.
As I snapped away, I took the scenery in and thought about how this place means so much spiritually to the Baha’i people around the world. It was beautiful so I kept walking. I noticed some gardeners and I snapped a couple pics of them too – what a job that must be in the heat and with the enormous incline!
Working hard
Suddenly one of them asked me if I was a Baha’i. I said no then I turned around and someone from security asked me why I was on my own. Ah oh! She told me that people weren’t allowed to tour the gardens on their own, only with guides (remember that tip!). I had no idea – obviously! This is when I implemented one of those little life lessons I’ve learned to master over the years – play dumb! I did just that and instead of escorting me off the property (which is apparently what they are supposed to do) she told me to wait for the tour group to catch up with me.
After a bit of a telling off from him too, we continued. There are lots of different buildings in the gardens that are only open to those of the Baha’i faith – including the International Baha’i Archives (that looks like the Acropolis) and the Centre for the Study of the Texts (which houses texts that are special to the Baha’i faith). The gardens and buildings all cost over $100 million to build and apparently has all been due to contributions from Baha’i followers around the world.
Me at the Baha'i
You may notice something strange in the photos I’m in – it’s over 30C and I’m wearing a sweater. Well, I was told that when you visit the gardens women are required to dress modestly and cover their shoulders – so I did. However, many women in my group were sleeveless so I’m not too sure that this rule still holds.
The tour ends just before the holy shrine of the Ba’b where you watch a short video in a quiet (and air conditioned) room. This is about the Baha’i faith, its history and information on the Baha’i World Centre.
To end this post, I will answer one question. Was it worth it to go back? I can safely say YES. Haifa may not be the most exciting of cities but these gardens are definitely something to see.
Enjoy, Miriam 
From barbra:
I would only say that if yoiu were a Bahai–you would not have gotten bored so easily.
From Miriam:
Hello, Thanks so much for your post. Sorry – maybe I was unclear on why I was getting bored. It was mainly because of my tour guide and since the tour was in Hebrew. From my own research on the Baha’i I found it very interesting and would actually like to learn more. The actual site was incredible and the philosophy behind the Baha’i sounds very intriguing.
Thanks again for your post, Miriam